Rare Jewels and Exquisite Colored Gemstones Shine in Two Bonhams NewYork Jewellery Auctions

Published on
June 13, 2025
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New York – Bonhams New York presented two highly anticipated live jewelry sales Jewels and Watches of Distinction: An Impressive Private Collection on June 11 and New York Jewels on June 12, 2025 , both of which saw rare jewels and colored gemstones exceed pre-sale estimates with remarkable results.

Jewels and Watches of Distinction: An Impressive Private Collection , resulted in a white glove sale with 100% lots sold. The extraordinary single-owner collection of signed pieces from the world's most storied maisons was a celebration of craftsmanship and creativity. The top lot was a Bulgari diamond choker necklace, Italy.

Composed of repeating elongated hexagonal links set with round brilliant-cut diamonds with a total diamond weight of 12.20 carats. The necklace sold for US$83,050 , over five times its pre-sale estimate of US$15,000-20,000. New York Jewels , with over 90% of lots sold, featured exceptional and rare period signed jewels by Boucheron, René Boivin, Belperron, and other master designers presented alongside an abundance of fancy-colored diamonds and vibrant gemstones from emeralds, sapphires and rubies set in spectacular signed pieces.

The top lot was an emerald and diamond necklace . Composed of graduated emeralds of Colombian origin, the necklace sold for US$597,400 , significantly exceeding its pre-sale estimate of US$120,000-180,000. Another notable New York Jewels highlight was an important Boucheron Art Nouveau enamel, sapphire and diamond 'Juno' pendant, circa 1900. Exhibited at the Paris, Exposition Universelle in 1900, this rare pendant sold amid a bidding frenzy for US$508,500, over double its pre-sale estimate of US$200,000-300,000.

Caroline Morrissey, Bonhams Director and Head of Jewelry, New York, commented : "We were honored to present a New York Jewels auction defined by its exceptional array of rare, signed pieces, fancy-colored diamonds, and important colored gemstones from the most coveted maisons. Standout lots included a stunning emerald necklace and earrings that drew fierce competition, ultimately achieving prices well above expectations. Among the many other highlights, a rare René Boivin colored diamond orchid brooch, a museum quality Boucheron Art Nouveau 'Juno' pendant, a vibrant Paraíba tourmaline, and an important Kashmir sapphire all achieved impressive prices. These results underscore a clear trend: color is king. Collectors continue to pursue rare, richly hued gemstones with enthusiasm, and this sale was a powerful testament to that enduring demand."

Other New York Jewels notable lots included:

• A spinel. emerald, diamond and cultured pearl pendant. Centering a rectangular-cut spinel of Sri Lankan origin, weighing 50.63 carats, set within a frame of round brilliant, baguette and tapered baguette-cut diamonds, suspending two round pearls and one briolette-cut emerald weighing 7.80 carats. The pendant sold for US$470,400 against a pre-sale estimate of US$300,000-500,000.

• A pair of emerald and diamond earclips. Each centering an emerald-cut emerald, within a surround of pear-shaped and round brilliant-cut diamonds. Signed PIRANESI with an estimated emerald weight of 26.00 and 26.45 carats. The earclips sold for US$445,000, over eight times its pre-sale estimate of US$50,000 - 80,000.

• A rare René Boivin colored diamond orchid brooch, circa 1939 . Designed as an orchid, the petals set throughout with round brilliant and old European-cut diamonds, further enhanced by round brilliant, old European and single-cut diamonds of yellow tint. The brooch has an estimated total diamond weight of 20.00- 25.00 carats and estimated total colored diamond weight of 15.30 carats. The brooch sold for US$267,200, nearly double its pre-sale estimate of US$150,000-200,000.

Emily Waterfall, Director of Jewelry Department, in Los Angeles, commented : "Jewels and Watches of Distinction: An Impressive Private Collection showcased an extraordinary single-owner treasure trove celebrating masterful craftsmanship and boundless creativity. Inspired by flora and fauna, the collection reflected the owner'simpeccable taste, innate elegance, and distinctive style. The sale sparked intense bidding and achieved white glove status, with 100% of lots sold. We are thrilled that the results reflected the quality and artistry of the collection, with standout pieces including the Bulgari diamond Serpenti choker necklace and the Bulgari sapphire and diamond earrings—both surpassing their pre-sale estimates."

Other Jewels and Watches of Distinction: An Impressive Private Collection highlights included:

• A Cartier 18K gold and emerald 'Panthère' necklace, France. Composed of repeating panther motifs with emerald eyes; the necklace sold for US$51,200, double its pre-sale estimate of US$20,000-30,000.

• A Cartier 18K gold necklace, France. Comprising rows of tiered gold chains, decorated with elephants on each side and set with circular-cut emerald eyes, sold for US$44,800, over double its pre-sale estimate of US$15,000-25,000.

• A pair of Bulgari sapphire and diamond earrings. Each centering an oval-shaped sapphire within a triple surround set with round brilliant-cut diamonds and calibré cut sapphires. The earrings sold for US$38,400 , twelve times its pre-sale estimate of US$3,000-5,000.

• A Cartier diamond and sapphire 'Dove les Oiseaux libérés' ring, France . Designed as two doves set throughout with round brilliant-cut diamonds and bufftop calibré sapphires. The ring sold for US$35,840 , over four times its pre-sale estimate of US$8,000-12,000.

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