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Phillips Unveils Highlights from the Geneva Jewels Auction: VI

Published on
April 8, 2026
Phillips Unveils Highlights from the Geneva Jewels Auction: VI
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Geneva, 8 April 2026 - Phillips has revealed the highlights of The Geneva Jewels Auction: VI, which takes place on 11 May 2026 at the Hôtel President in Geneva. Marking the house's 230th anniversary, the sale introduces a new section titled "Collections & Provenance," placing a special emphasis on period jewels, signed pieces, and objects of distinguished provenance, including historic jewels and objects from The Vanderbilt Family, the Kings of Bavaria, and further noble houses of Europe. The sale is led by an unheated Burmese sapphire ring weighing 19.93 carats, offered alongside iconic designs from the world's most celebrated maisons, among them a rare Van Cleef & Arpels "Zip" necklace and pieces by Cartier, Boucheron, Bulgari, Graff, and Sterlé.

Benoît Repellin, Phillips' Worldwide Head of Jewellery, said the sale places "the spotlight on both rare jewels of historical provenance and exceptional signed creations." Introducing the new section, he added, "Marking Phillips' 230th anniversary, we are particularly pleased to introduce our new section, 'Collections & Provenance', inspired by Phillips' long-standing legacy. Following the success of The Vanderbilt Family Jewels, which was 100% sold in November last year, we are delighted that members of the family have once again entrusted us with pieces from their collections. This curated offering tells stories of heritage, craftsmanship and legacy, coming to market at a time of strong global appetite for period and signature jewels." Ahead of the sale, highlights tour internationally to Singapore, Taipei, New York, and London, before the full exhibition goes on view in Geneva from 6 to 11 May.

Exceptional gemstones

The sale presents a refined selection of gemstones distinguished by their rarity, size, and natural qualities. Leading the group is the superb Burmese sapphire ring of 19.93 carats, unheated and of impressive scale, estimated at USD 395,000 to 600,000 (CHF 320,000 to 480,000). It is joined by a pair of Ceylon sapphire earrings weighing 12.31 and 12.69 carats, also free from heat treatment, estimated at USD 185,000 to 240,000 (CHF 175,000 to 190,000). Further highlights include a magnificent ruby and diamond necklace at USD 300,000 to 500,000 (CHF 240,000 to 400,000) and a striking Colombian emerald ring of 14.69 carats at USD 280,000 to 350,000 (CHF 230,000 to 280,000). Also on offer are a pair of Burmese pink sapphire and diamond ear clips by M. Gérard, notable for their vivid color (USD 110,000 to 150,000 / CHF 90,000 to 120,000), and a Paraiba tourmaline and diamond ring and pendant combination weighing 14.15 carats (USD 70,000 to 100,000 / CHF 60,000 to 80,000), a stone prized for its electrifying neon hues and extreme rarity.

Iconic jewels from renowned maisons

A selection of signed jewels spans the 20th century to the present day. Alongside the iconic Van Cleef & Arpels "Zip" necklace and bracelet combination in coral, chrysoprase, and diamond, estimated at USD 320,000 to 600,000 (CHF 260,000 to 480,000), the Maison is further represented by a vibrant "Les Jardins" necklace set with sapphires, colored sapphires, garnets, and diamonds (USD 120,000 to 240,000 / CHF 95,000 to 190,000) and a pair of ruby and diamond earrings employing the iconic Serti mystérieux technique (USD 80,000 to 120,000 / CHF 70,000 to 95,000). Cartier contributes a pair of natural pearl and diamond earrings under Monture Cartier (USD 110,000 to 150,000 / CHF 90,000 to 120,000), while Bulgari offers a bold colored sapphire, rock crystal, and diamond demi-parure (USD 120,000 to 180,000 / CHF 95,000 to 140,000). The sculptural creativity of Sterlé is represented by a gold and diamond "Leaf" brooch created for Chaumet circa 1967 (USD 22,000 to 35,000 / CHF 18,000 to 28,000), with further creations by Chaumet, Boucheron, and Mauboussin completing the group.

Collections and provenance: the Vanderbilt Family

Evoking the grandeur of the Gilded Age, the objects from The Vanderbilt Family reflect a moment when the American elite looked to 18th-century European nobility in furnishing their homes. The group of silver-gilt objects, many used at The Breakers, the family's celebrated Newport residence, includes a set of 12 silver-gilt dessert plates by Paul de Lamerie of 1746 to 1747 (USD 16,000 to 20,000 / CHF 15,000 to 20,000), a pair of silver-gilt flasks by Pierre Harache of circa 1700 (USD 17,000 to 24,000 / CHF 16,000 to 22,000), a pair of silver-gilt candelabra by Edward Wakelin of 1751 to 1752 (USD 40,000 to 45,000 / CHF 32,000 to 36,000), and an enamel and gold French snuff box dated 1752 (USD 24,000 to 28,000 / CHF 22,000 to 26,000). Complementing the group is an elegant Cartier vanity case in gold, enamel, diamond, and sapphire from the 1920s, formerly belonging to Gladys Vanderbilt, Countess Széchényi (USD 8,000 to 12,000 / CHF 7,500 to 11,000).

Jewels and objects from the Kings of Bavaria

A remarkable group of jewels and objets d'art from the Kings of Bavaria offers a rare glimpse into the artistic patronage of the 19th-century Bavarian court, closely intertwined with figures such as King Ludwig I, King Ludwig II, and the composer Richard Wagner. Among the highlights is an exceptional enamel, diamond, and gold pocket watch featuring a miniature portrait of King Ludwig II, traditionally presented to Wagner on the occasion of the premiere of The Ring of the Nibelung at Bayreuth in 1876 (USD 40,000 to 60,000 / CHF 32,000 to 48,000). A gold and diamond snuff box, monogrammed with two intertwined Cs set with diamonds beneath a royal crown and, by tradition, given in 1860 by King Ludwig II to Wagner, is estimated at USD 50,000 to 60,000 (CHF 40,000 to 45,000). The selection also includes a gold, gem-set, and enamel purse bearing a miniature portrait of King Ludwig I in military dress wearing the Order of the Golden Fleece (USD 30,000 to 40,000 / CHF 24,000 to 30,000) and a gold and enamel box from Hanau bearing the monogram of King Ludwig I (USD 20,000 to 25,000 / CHF 16,000 to 20,000).

Noble jewels of European provenance

Further enriching the section is a selection of noble jewels from European families. A diamond brooch of the late 19th century was previously offered in the landmark Royal Jewels from the Bourbon Parma Family sale and was gifted to Archduchess Maria Anna of Austria, later Princess Elie of Bourbon Parma, by her brother Archduke Albrecht of Austria on the occasion of her 17th birthday, appearing in a 1913 photograph of the Princess (USD 26,000 to 38,000 / CHF 20,000 to 30,000). Among the other highlights is an elegant ruby and diamond pendent necklace of circa 1877, originally part of the wedding basket of a French noble bride (USD 40,000 to 60,000 / CHF 32,000 to 48,000), alongside a Cartier desk clock presented by the Duke de Talleyrand to the Count and Countess Eltz on the occasion of their marriage.

The Geneva Jewels Auction: VI takes place on 11 May 2026 at 3pm CEST at the Hôtel President, Quai Wilson 47, Geneva, with viewing from 6 to 11 May 2026. Phillips, founded in London in 1796, today holds its principal auctions in New York, London, Geneva, and Hong Kong, with dedicated expertise across Modern and Contemporary Art, Design, Photographs, Editions, Watches, and Jewels.

Estimates do not include the buyer's premium; prices achieved include the hammer price plus buyer's premium.

(Press Release)

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