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Gold & Oil Sell Off; $17.4M Diamond Sold at Auction; New Creative Directors at Moschino

Published on
June 22, 2026
Open Bid
Contributors
Sharon Obuobi
Editor in Chief
Akosua Kissiedu
Business Intelligence Editor
Hai Ngan Bui
Business Intelligence Writer
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Open Bid

Open Bid

Daily · Weekday mornings • Episode 16

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Your morning briefing on the luxury and collectibles markets. Today: safe havens sell off as US and Iran peace talks progress, with gold and oil falling and the dollar near a one-year high. A single coloured diamond tops our entire auction database at 17.4 million dollars. A museum-grade Triceratops skull and a rare ancient bronze head to auction. And there's a changing of the guard at Moschino.

INTRO

Good morning. It's Monday, June 22. I'm Sharon, and this is Open Bid from ALT/FNDATA.

This episode of Open Bid is brought to you by ALT/FNDATA, the market intelligence platform for insights on the luxury markets and related public equities. With a membership, you can unlock access to dashboards, reports and cutting-edge insights to keep your finger on the pulse of the market and drive your competitive advantage. Learn more at altfndata.com/membership.

Today: gold and oil fall as US and Iran peace talks show progress, a single coloured diamond tops our entire auction database at 17.4 million dollars, a museum-grade dinosaur skull and a rare ancient bronze head to auction, and there's a shake-up at the top of the Italian house Moschino. Plus a look ahead to tomorrow's Art Market.

THE MARKETS, A PEACE-DEAL UNWIND

We begin with the markets, where the big story over the weekend was diplomacy. Talks between the United States and Iran showed real signs of progress, and the first thing that moved was the price of safety. When the risk of a wider conflict eases, investors sell the assets they buy for protection. So this morning gold is trading around 4,228 dollars an ounce, down about 2 percent, and silver is off close to 5 percent. Oil fell too, with US crude back near 75 dollars a barrel, as Iran resumed shipping more of its oil through the Strait of Hormuz, the narrow waterway that carries a large share of the world's crude. The dollar, meanwhile, is firm and trading near a one-year high. US markets reopen this morning after Friday's Juneteenth holiday, and Asian shares rose overnight on the same peace-deal optimism. Here in Europe, the luxury names opened mixed. LVMH opened at 500.40 euros, up about 0.2 percent from Friday's close of 499.25. Hermès was essentially flat at 1,722.50 euros. Richemont opened a touch lower at 183.10 Swiss francs, down about 0.3 percent, and Kering eased to 271.70 euros. The softest of the group was Brunello Cucinelli, the Italian cashmere maker, which opened at 84.46 euros, down nearly 4 percent, while in London, Burberry opened at 1,131 pence, off about 1.4 percent. The watch names were the bright spot. Watches of Switzerland, the big London-listed retailer, opened at 731.5 pence, up about 1.1 percent, and Swatch Group was little changed in Zurich at 210 Swiss francs.

THE OCEAN DREAM, 17.4 MILLION DOLLARS

Now to a number from our own database, and it is a big one. Across every category we track, watches, art, cars, handbags, and jewelry, the single highest auction result of the past 90 days is a jewel. A coloured diamond and diamond ring known as the Ocean Dream sold for 17.4 million dollars at Christie's last month. To put that in perspective, that one ring sold for more than most entire collector-car auctions bring in a single sale. It is a useful reminder that even while the broad luxury market is soft and the brands are shipping fewer goods, the very top of the jewelry market is still finding deep-pocketed buyers. That sale, and every other result we are talking about, is captured in the ALT/FNDATA database.

FROM THE SALEROOM, A DINOSAUR AND A BRONZE

Two unusual lots are heading to auction. First, a museum-grade Triceratops skull will lead a sale of natural history treasures at the auction house Joopiter. Fossils of this quality rarely come to market, and dinosaur material has become one of the hottest corners of the collecting world, with complete skeletons selling for tens of millions of dollars in recent years. And in London, Sotheby's will offer a rare bronze of Laocoön and his Sons, the famous ancient sculpture of a Trojan priest and his two boys being attacked by sea serpents. This is one of only four life-sized bronze casts in existence, and it is expected to sell for around 4 million dollars when it goes under the hammer in July.

LUXURY BUSINESS, A NEW DUO AT MOSCHINO

To the business of fashion, where there is a changing of the guard at Moschino. The brand's creative director, Adrian Appiolaza, stepped down on Friday after two years, a mutual decision that comes amid mounting financial troubles at the label's owner, the Italian group Aeffe. In his place, Moschino has hired the two founders of the cult Milan label Sunnei, Simone Rizzo and Loris Messina, who say they want to turn the house into, in their words, a cultural loudspeaker. That's according to Business of Fashion and Reuters. There is movement elsewhere in the executive ranks too. Loewe has named a new global communications director, Eloise Hautcoeur, who joins from Versace in Milan. And the luxury houses are leaning hard into summer. Business of Fashion reports that as the industry's beach-club era stretches into a ninth season, brands are taking over the coastline, with Mytheresa, Gucci, and Jacquemus all descending on Monaco, and Burberry setting up shop in Athens. One more from the runway: Alexander McQueen, which normally shows in Paris, will return to the official London Fashion Week calendar with a show in September, its first London slot in years.

ALSO IN THE ART WORLD

A few notes from the art world before we close. In France, a converted winery has just been recognized as a national museum. The Coopérative-Musée Cérès Franco, which holds an eclectic private collection, is reopening to the public after a major renovation. And there is a restitution result worth flagging. A US court has ordered the veteran dealer David Nahmad to return a Modigliani painting that was found to have been looted, a notable development in the long-running fight over Nazi-era art claims. These are exactly the kinds of stories we dig into on our weekly art show, and Art Market is out tomorrow with a full slate. We will look at the lasting impact of Brexit on the British art trade, a decade on from the vote to leave the European Union. We will visit the collector David Walsh as he expands his Museum of Old and New Art in Tasmania. And we will dig into a remarkable find, a previously unknown archive that belonged to Van Gogh's doctor, Paul Gachet, including a sketch of the artist on his deathbed.

WEEK AHEAD

Looking ahead, the Laocoön bronze goes on view in London ahead of its July sale, and Closing Price follows this evening with the day's closes.

OUTRO

That's it on Open Bid for today, Monday, June 22. Closing Price follows this evening at 5 PM Eastern.

For insights on the data behind today's stories, the ALT/FNDATA membership gives you access to a rich library of market data dashboards, reports and insights. Get started at altfndata.com/membership or reach us anytime at info@altfndata.com.

Subscribe to get notified of new episodes, and if you love the show, please leave us a five-star rating on Spotify or Apple Podcasts.

I'm Sharon, from ALT/FNDATA. I'll talk with you in the next episode.

In this episode show notes

Markets: A Peace-Deal Unwind

  • Talks between the US and Iran showed real progress over the weekend, easing fears of a wider conflict and sending safe-haven assets lower. Gold fell about 2 percent this morning to around 4,228 dollars an ounce, and silver dropped close to 5 percent.
  • Oil slipped too, with US crude back near 75 dollars a barrel, as Iran resumed shipping more crude through the Strait of Hormuz. The dollar held firm near a one-year high.
  • US markets reopen today after Friday's Juneteenth holiday; Asian shares rose overnight. European luxury opened mixed: LVMH 500.40 euros (up about 0.2 percent from Friday's 499.25), Hermès flat at 1,722.50 euros, Richemont 183.10 Swiss francs (down about 0.3 percent), Kering 271.70 euros (down about 0.1 percent), Burberry 1,131 pence (down about 1.4 percent), and Brunello Cucinelli the weakest at 84.46 euros (down nearly 4 percent). The watch names were the bright spot: Watches of Switzerland 731.5 pence (up about 1.1 percent) and Swatch Group 210 Swiss francs (down about 0.3 percent).

The Ocean Dream: 17.4 Million Dollars (ALT/FNDATA data)

  • Across every category we track (watches, art, cars, handbags, and jewelry), the single highest auction result of the past 90 days is a jewel: a coloured diamond and diamond ring known as the Ocean Dream, which sold for 17.4 million dollars at Christie's last month.
  • The takeaway: even with broad luxury soft, the very top of the jewelry market is still drawing deep-pocketed buyers. Every result is captured in the ALT/FNDATA database.

From the Saleroom: A Dinosaur and a Bronze

  • A museum-grade Triceratops skull will lead a sale of natural history treasures at the auction house Joopiter. Top-quality fossils rarely reach the market, and dinosaur material has become one of collecting's hottest corners.
  • In London, Sotheby's will offer a rare bronze of Laocoön and his Sons, one of only four life-sized casts in existence, expected to fetch around 4 million dollars at auction in July.

Luxury Business: A New Duo at Moschino

  • Creative director Adrian Appiolaza stepped down on Friday after two years, a mutual decision amid financial troubles at owner Aeffe. Moschino has hired the founders of Milan label Sunnei, Simone Rizzo and Loris Messina, to take over (Business of Fashion, Reuters).
  • Loewe named a new global communications director, Eloise Hautcoeur, who joins from Versace in Milan (WWD).
  • Luxury's beach-club era stretches into a ninth summer: brands are taking over the coastline, with Mytheresa, Gucci, and Jacquemus in Monaco and Burberry setting up in Athens (Business of Fashion).
  • Alexander McQueen will return to the London Fashion Week calendar with a September runway show, its first London slot in years (WWD).

Also in the Art World (and tomorrow on Art Market)

  • In France, the Coopérative-Musée Cérès Franco, a converted winery holding an eclectic private collection, has been recognized as a national museum and reopens after a major renovation (The Art Newspaper).
  • A US court ordered veteran dealer David Nahmad to return a Modigliani painting found to have been looted, a notable Nazi-era restitution result (Artnet News).
  • Coming up tomorrow on Art Market: the lasting impact of Brexit on the UK art trade a decade on; collector David Walsh's expansion of his Museum of Old and New Art in Tasmania; and a newly surfaced archive that belonged to Van Gogh's doctor, Paul Gachet, including a deathbed sketch of the artist.
By the Numbers
ALT/FNDATA proprietary data
  • 17.4 million dollars: the Ocean Dream coloured-diamond ring at Christie's, the top realised lot across all categories in our database over the trailing 90 days.
  • Markets this morning: gold around 4,228 dollars an ounce (down about 2 percent), WTI crude near 75 dollars (down about 1.4 percent), the dollar near a one-year high.

Week Ahead

  • The Laocoön bronze goes on view in London ahead of its July sale; Art Market, our weekly deep dive, is out tomorrow.
Also from ALT/FNDATA: Closing Price — this evening at 5 PM ET • Art Market — tomorrow (Tuesday) • Open Bid returns tomorrow at 6 AM ET • All episodesListen on all platforms

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